September 2026 Sustainable Fashion Update
Welcome to our September edition of the Sustainable Fashion Update!
It certainly feels like September has hit the ground running. Between Fashion Month sweeping through New York, London, Milan, and Paris, kids heading back to school, and crucial policies like the EU's EmpCo directive officially going live, it has been a whirlwind of a month. On one side, the macro picture has handed us some sobering reality checks: the UN issued stark warnings on global warming overshooting 1.5°C, and the latest industry reports show global fibre production pushing emissions up by 6.3%. Yet at the same time, the regulatory, commercial, and community momentum in response feels more urgent and active than ever.
From the EU’s EmpCo directive coming into force to growing calls across the UK for de minimis reform and safer, certified school uniforms, policy is catching up fast. Meanwhile, grassroots campaigns and independent brand innovators are proving that sustainable, circular models work in practice. We have seen circular pioneer Mud Jeans return to operations, and Bristol-based Yes Friends secure a clean sweep of investment from all five Dragons on Dragons' Den. There is a genuine sense that despite the scale of the challenge, practical solutions are gaining serious ground. So, how are you feeling as we head into the final quarter of the year? Let’s dive into this month’s updates.
Policy & Regulation
EU’s Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition Directive came into force on September 27, 2026, restricting vague environmental claims and requiring all product labels, including existing inventory, to meet strict new standards. Sustainable consumption - European Commission
France Enacts Fast Fashion Legislation: France officially implemented its national fast fashion laws (Loi n° 2026-602) on September 1, 2026, penalizing high-volume, low-cost ultra-fast fashion models. France Fast Fashion Law 2026: Loi n° 2026-602
EU Commission Launches Digital Product Passport Hub: The European Commission created a central hub for Digital Product Passport (DPP) standards for textiles and apparel to prepare brands for upcoming traceabilty mandates. Textile apparel - European Commission
EU Consults on Circular VAT Rules: As part of the upcoming Circular Economy Act, the European Commission launched a public consultation to reform VAT rules in favor of circular business models, repair, and reuse. VAT and circular economy
Vietnam Bans Imports Made via Forced Labour: A new decree went into effect on September 5, 2026, prohibiting any goods extracted, produced, or manufactured wholly or in part using forced labor from entering Vietnam. Just Style Article
US Fabric Act Reintroduced: US lawmakers reintroduced the Fabric Act to drive domestic apparel manufacturing growth, enforce minimum wage protections, and incentivize local production. Just Style Article
Bristol Bans Fast Fashion Ads
UK Local Councils Ban Fossil Fuel and Fast Fashion Ads: Bristol became the latest UK city to ban ads for fossil fuels, SUVs, airlines, and ultra-fast fashion, joining over 20 UK councils enacting environmental ad restrictions. Bristol becomes first British city to ban advertisements for fast fashion | Bristol | The Guardian- done image for this
UK Campaign Launches for Safe School Uniforms: Sustainable Fashion Week launched a petition targeting the UK government to regulate harmful chemicals, mandate transparent testing, and limit synthetic fibres in school uniforms. https://lnkd.in/eM_KP7EJ
UK De Minimis Import Closing Demands: Calls are intensifying across the UK apparel sector for the government to close the de minimis tax loophole used by cross-border ultra-fast fashion retailers. Bates Wells, in collaboration with Threadneedle Collaboration and Fashion Declares, have written an open letter to the Chancellor calling for the exemption's removal to be accelerated at the Autumn Budget 2026 - sign to show your support here https://lnkd.in/eqKbTs75
Circularity & Materials Innovation
Kearney Circular Fashion Index 2026 Released: The global average Circular Fashion Index (CFX) score rose slightly to 3.7 out of 10 (up from 3.4 in 2025) across 241 analyzed brands. While 73% - 84% of brands now demonstrate moderate baseline activity in circular design, materials, and care, deep execution remains concentrated in a small leadership group, with only 3%–7% reaching extensive activation. Outdoor brands lead maturity at 5.9, followed by sportswear at 4.2 and premium fashion at 3.8. Meanwhile, complex service-based models struggle to scale, with 63% scoring low for repair services, 66% for resale, and 89% for rental offerings due to operational and economic hurdles. Kearney CFX 2026 Report
Circular Fashion News & Fashion for Good Map Textile Recycling: A joint report outlines the current operational landscape and scalability barriers of global textile-to-textile recycling networks. Circular Fashion News
M&S, New Look and Sainsbury’s join Oxfam
M&S, New Look, Sainsbury’s, and Oxfam Launch 'The Circuit': The retailers teamed up with Circle-8 to construct a standardized, UK-based circular textile value chain for end-of-use clothing. M&S, New Look, Sainsbury's and Oxfam Join Forces to Boost the UK’s Circular Textile Economy | Marks & Spencer
Amazon, Stella McCartney, & Canopy Form Climate Coalition: Over 60 signatories launched The Climate Pledge Fashion Coalition to accelerate lower-impact raw material commercialization. Fashion Climate Coalition Targets Sustainable Materials
China Unveils 5-Year Plan for $1.2T Circular Economy: China’s national strategy targets a 16% rise in resource productivity and 510 million tonnes of recycled secondary resources by 2030, establishing closed-loop systems. China’s circular economy development plan for the 15th five-year period: Signals of a more systemic transition | Ellen MacArthur Foundation
Primark & Circ Partner for Recycled Polyester Commercial Scale: Primark signed a multi-year agreement to off-take recycled polyester from Circ’s upcoming commercial recycling plant in France starting in 2029. Primark Partners With Circ for Long-term Recycled Polyester Initiative
Ravel Raises $8.2M for Purification Recycling Technology: Textile recycling innovator Ravel secured $8.2M to scale its proprietary purification technology designed to separate complex blended fibres. Recycling pioneer Ravel raises $8.2 million | Ecotextile News
BAM Launches Recyclable Waterproof Outerwear: Activewear brand BAM introduced its first fully recyclable waterproof coat designed specifically for mono-material circularity. https://www.ecotextile.com/2026091165547/news/materials-production-news/bam-unveils-first-recyclable-waterproof-coat/
Arc’teryx Unveils 'System 0' Circular Design Framework: Arc'teryx introduced System 0, an internal design system that prioritizes product disassembly, material recovery, and longevity. Arc'teryx Blog Entry
Re&Up Powers Zalando Private Label via Next-Gen Cotton: Next-gen material maker Re&Up integrated its circular recycled cotton into Zalando’s latest private-label collections. https://reandup.com/2026/09/08/reups-next-gen-cotton-powers-zalandos-latest-private-label-collection/
Hyosung Scales Bio-Based Spandex from Sugarcane: Materials giant Hyosung expanded commercial production of sugarcane-derived bio-spandex to replace fossil fuel elastane. FENC News Hub
BSI Releases SME Circularity Playbook: The British Standards Institution published a step-by-step guide to help apparel SMEs implement international circularity frameworks. Circularity Playbook for Fashion SMEs | BSI
Far Eastern New Century (FENC) Advances Textile Recycling: FENC showcased advanced polyester chemical recycling innovations targeting post-consumer garment waste. FENC | Latest News
Rental Resale & Repair
H&M Launches National Online Repair Service in France: In partnership with Reekom and Save Your Wardrobe, H&M now offers garment repairs in France for any apparel brand with 7–15 day turnaround times. H&M launches its online repair service in partnership with Reekom and Save Your Wardrobe - FashionNetwork
Doorstep Textile Collection Study Published by WRAP & Anglo Recycling: New research details how localized doorstep textile collections capture higher commercial value than standard bin banks. Doorstep collections: Part of the solution to a fragile textile system | WRAP - The Waste and Resources Action Programme
Solidarity Reuse Delivers 5x Lower Carbon Than Online Resale: French study reveals buying secondhand via physical solidarity shops emits 5x less CO2e than online resale platforms, with average prices at €3.40 compared to €16.70. Second-hand: solidarity reuse, fashion's second chance
Germany’s Textile Reuse Collection Rate Drops to 44%: Collected post-consumer textiles in Germany plummeted 18% over five years, falling from 62% in 2018 to 44% in 2023. Apparel Insider Article
eBay UK Grants £200,000 to Young Circular Entrepreneurs: eBay UK launched £10,000 individual grants for 20 young business owners (aged 18–30) focused on resale and circular retail. eBay to invest up to £200,000 to back Britain’s next generation - eBay Inc.
TikTok Shop Reports 94% of US Luxury Resale Driven by Live Stream: TikTok disclosed that live shopping channels now generate nearly all of its US luxury resale GMV. Livestreams dominate luxury resale buys on TikTok Shop US
Quibly Launches Two-Pic Resale Marketplace in the UK: New UK resale platform Quibly debuted technology that autogenerates complete product listings using only two user photos. Quibly Official
High-Income Households Lead Secondhand Adoption: Retail Week data shows higher-earning demographics are now the primary drivers of secondhand fashion growth. Chart of the Week: High-income households are the most likely to shop secondhand | Retail Week
Oxfam Launched Second Hand September with Richard E. Grant: Oxfam’s annual campaign returned with actor Richard E. Grant advocating for pre-loved fashion to combat fast fashion overproduction. Oxfam Campaign Page
Torrens University Unveils Sustainable Wardrobe Calculator: Torrens University Australia developed an interactive digital tool helping consumers calculate the environmental impact of their personal closets. Sustainable Wardrobe Calculator | Torrens University
MUD Jeans are back
MUD Jeans Relaunches Business Operations: Circular denim pioneer MUD Jeans officially restarted operations, reinforcing its lease-a-jeans circular model. MUD Jeans Relaunch
Supply Chain & Ethics
AAFA Releases Heat-Stress Toolkit for Garment Workers: Launched at Cascale's annual meeting, the American Apparel & Footwear Association unveiled worker heat-safety guidelines to combat rising climate risks in factories. American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA
AAFA Releases Heat-Stress Toolkit for Garment Workers
Over 300 Brands Sign International Accord Renewal: Brand signatories to the International Accord reached 300, guaranteeing worker health and safety inspections in garment hubs. International Accord Statement
Levi’s and M&S Launch Fashion Renewable Collaborative: Supported by SE Advisory Services, the alliance has registered 500 supplier factories to accelerate renewable energy transitions across Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers. Levi’s, M&S & SE Advisory Services’ Renewable Fashion Collab | Sustainability Magazine
Stand.earth Study Shows 15 Brands Can Cut 9M Tons of Carbon in Bangladesh: Targeted renewable transitions by 15 top fashion brands in Bangladesh could eliminate almost 9 million metric tons of CO2 by 2040. Stand.earth Press Release
TextileGenesis Pilots Organic Traceability with Oeko-Tex: TextileGenesis’s digital traceability platform is being integrated directly into Oeko-Tex's organic certification process. OEKO-TEX® chooses TextileGenesis to advance digital traceability for organic cotton - TextileGenesis®
Global Standards Launches GRTS Processing Standard: Global Standards introduced the Global Recycled Textile Standard (GRTS) to cover processing protocols across an expanded range of sustainable fibers. Global Standards - Global Standards announce launch of GRTS, a new textile processing standard covering a broader range of eligible fibres
Fabacus and Amazon Launch Verified Intellectual Property (VIP) Protocol: Fabacus partnered with Amazon as the lead launch partner for the VIP Protocol, establishing a digital standard for brand IP registration and licensing management. FABACUS ANNOUNCES VIP PROTOCOL, WITH AMAZON AS LEAD LAUNCH PARTNER – Fabacus
Retail Highs and Lows
PETA activists stormed the runway at H&M Group’s COS show during NY Fashion Week (and subsequently H&M in London) to protest the use of wool. While campaign groups continue pushing to eliminate animal-derived materials, industry leaders highlight that responsible, certified wool farming supports soil health, biodiversity, and regional agricultural communities, underscoring a growing need to educate consumers on natural fibres versus fossil-fuel synthetic alternatives. Retail Gazette Analysis
PETA protest at COS Catwalk
Next Profits Up 10.5% to £569M: Next reported strong H1 performance with full-price sales up 7.7% and raised its full-year profit target to £1.26B, driven by 23.9% international growth. Next Investor Relations
Inditex H1 Sales Rise 7.6% to €19.8B: Inditex posted gross profits of €11.6B and a net income increase of 6.8% to €3.0B, maintaining a 58.7% gross margin. Inditex H1 Results
Debenhams Group GMV Increases 1.8%: Debenhams Group EBITDA grew 13.9% to £24M, with Boohoo, PrettyLittleThing, and Karen Millen returning to growth. Debenhams Group Updates
John Lewis Sales Up 2%, Pre-Tax Losses Widen: John Lewis Partnership recorded H1 sales of £6.3B, but losses before tax widened to £89M. John Lewis Partnership Results
JD Sports Operating Profit Falls 20.5%: JD Sports reported H1 operating profits of £294M, down from £369M in the prior year period. JD Sports Financial Release
Yes Friends Secures 5-Dragon Investment on Dragons' Den: Ethical clothing brand Yes Friends received backing from all five investors on BBC’s Dragons' Den. BBC News Feature
Fashion-Enter Ltd/ FashionCapital Wins King’s Award for Sustainability: Garment manufacturing enterprise Fashion Enter received the King’s Award for Enterprise in Sustainability. Fashion Enter Announcement
ASOS.com Debuts Co-Created Adaptive Collection: ASOS launched an adaptive collection designed alongside disabled customers and inclusion agency Tilting the Lens. Retail Gazette Article
Nike Shareholders Reject Climate Transparency Proposal: Nike investors voted down a resolution requesting detailed climate target disclosures, despite support from Norway's sovereign wealth fund. Retail Gazette Report
Shein Shares Drop 6% as Quarterly Profit Slides 67%: Fast-fashion platform Shein saw its shares drop over 6% following a 67% fall in quarterly adjusted net profit to $228 million. Profit margins were squeezed to 2.1% (down from 6.2% last year) due to rising air freight costs driven by Middle East disruptions, alongside upcoming EU parcel fees squeezing cross-border margins. Reuters Article
UK Retailers & DWP Target 100,000 Youth Jobs: Over 40 retailers, including M&S, Tesco, and John Lewis launched the 'Opening Shift' program to place 100,000 young people in jobs by 2029. UK Government Press Release
Reports & Research
UNEP Reports World Set to Exceed 1.5°C Goal: UNEP’s Limiting Overshoot report states global temperatures will temporarily exceed 1.5°C, peaking at 1.8°C minimum, requiring urgent supply chain adaptation. Limiting Overshoot - Navigating exceedance of 1.5°C and pathways towards return | UNEP - UN Environment Programme
UNEP Reports World Set to Exceed 1.5°C Goal
Apparel Impact Institute Reports 6.3% Rise in Sector Emissions: AII’s Taking Stock 2026 report reveals that total apparel sector greenhouse gas emissions grew by 6.3% to cross 1 gigatonne of CO2e. The analysis attributes this surge largely to 2024 raw fibre production reaching 132 million tonnes (up from 125M in 2023), with synthetic polyester accounting for 59% of total volumes and Tier 2 wet processing remaining the primary impact hotspot. Apparel Impact Institute Report -
Textile Exchange Releases 2026 Materials Market Report: TE’s latest annual dataset shows global fibre production expanded further in 2025 to a record 139 million tonnes (up from 132 million in 2024), driven primarily by virgin synthetic polyester growth. Meanwhile, the overall share of recycled fibres in global production stagnated at 7.6%, with recycled cotton remaining under 1% of the cotton market. Materials Market Report 2026 - Textile Exchange Discover the Materials Benchmark factsheet: Materials Benchmark Insights and Trends 2026 - Textile Exchange
Recycled Polyester Market Projected to Reach $36.27B by 2035: New market analysis places the global recycled polyester market at $18.41B in 2026, expanding at an 8.71% CAGR through 2035. Recycled Polyester Market Outlook 2026-2035
Fibr Research Data Maps Polyester Across 73 Retailers: An analysis of 139,042 fashion products revealed persistent synthetic fiber dominance across high street assortments. Fabric Composition Database — What 73 Clothing Brands Are Made Of | Fibre
Oxfam & WRAP Textiles Released 'The State of Style' Report: Data reveals 64% of consumers buy clothes on impulse via social feeds, and UK clothing items are worn fewer than 5 days on average before being shelved. Oxfam's State of Style Report 2026 | Oxfam GB
87% of Discarded Apparel in Good Condition, Norwegian Study Finds: Research inspecting 16,464 discarded items found 60%+ were fully wearable; top condition rates included Vero Moda (87.6%), Shein (86.5%), and Zara (81.4%). Apparel Insider Analysis
Bain Study Identifies Shifts in Consumer 'Do-Say' Sustainability Gap: Bain’s survey of 7,500 consumers shows 85% care about sustainability, with AI apps bridging the gap to help shoppers identify lower-carbon choices. For Consumers, Sustainability Isn’t Gone, But It Is Changing | Bain & Company
FatFace Study Reveals 40% of Consumers Overwash Denim: Research shows 40% of UK shoppers wash jeans too frequently and 23% wash at high temperatures, shortening product lifespans. Just Style Article
UNFCCC Releases Carbon Market & Sustainable Finance Papers: The Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action published two reports outlining capital deployment strategies for supply chain decarbonization. Two new reports highlight innovative finance-related ways to reduce emissions in the fashion industry | UNFCCC
Greenly and Normative Merge Carbon Software Operations: Carbon accounting platforms Greenly and Normative combined to create the world's largest corporate carbon emissions dataset. Greenly and Normative: Uniting Carbon Accounting - Greenly
Denim Future Report Explores Tariff and Fiber Shifts: "The Future of Denim" paper breaks down the combined impacts of US tariffs, raw cotton supply constraints, and EU unsold textile bans on global denim trade. https://lnkd.in/ea5A3nqQ
What were the biggest stories for you this month?