May 2026 Sustainable Fashion Update
Welcome to our May 2026 edition of the sustainable fashion update - its been a busy month. Between the heatwave, the headlines and an industry that never seems to slow down, there was a lot to keep track of. This month's update covers everything from a watershed moment for sustainable brand identity (yes, the Everlane news) to a world-first compostable outdoor fabric launching from Devon, a €200m regulatory slap for Temu, and Vinted cementing its place as a genuine mainstream retail force. As always, we have tried to pull out what matters, cut through the noise, and leave you with a clear picture of where the industry stands heading into summer.
Circularity & Materials Innovation
Circular Design Standard Version 6.0 Launches
circular.fashion released Circular Design Standard Version 6.0 on 5 May, the result of more than six years of cross-industry collaboration. The updated standard introduces over 400 concrete, fibre- and product-specific criteria, giving design and sourcing teams a clear operational answer to the question the industry has been asking for too long: what does circularity actually mean at a product level? It is built to close the gap between high-level principles and the day-to-day decisions that bring them to life, and specifically to help brands prepare for ESPR, EPR eco-modulation and the Empowering Consumers Directive.
Europe’s 2030 Circularity Blueprint Published
Global Fashion Agenda has released its 2030 Circularity Blueprint, a framework aimed at scaling recycling infrastructure and unlocking investment opportunities across Europe’s textile sector. With regulatory pressure mounting, the blueprint sets out the building blocks needed to shift from aspiration to implementation before the end of the decade.
Dryrobe Launches World-First Compostable Outdoor Fabric
Devon-based Dryrobe has raised the bar for outdoor apparel with the launch of Dryrobe Pure, featuring what it claims is the world’s first 100% industrially compostable inner pile fabric ever used in an outdoor application. The BIOSherpa technology at its core is 98% bio-based, derived from fermented non-GMO corn, and marks the first time a medical-grade biopolymer has been used in the outdoor category. The outer shell is crafted from Ventile Eco, using 68% organic cotton and 32% hemp. The entire garment is manufactured in the UK, priced at £650 and made to order, with 100% of profits reinvested into research and development.
ECCO and Spinnova Launch Protein-Based Fibre Shoe
ECCO has partnered with Spinnova to release a shoe made from leather by-product transformed into a protein-based fibre, a collaboration that signals continued momentum in next-generation material science and the drive to close the loop on leather production waste.
AMANN and Resortecs Partner on Heat-Dissolvable Threads
AMANN Group has partnered with Resortecs in the production of heat-dissolvable sewing threads for efficient textile recycling. The collaboration directly addresses one of the persistent barriers to garment recyclability: the difficulty of separating sewn components at scale.
trinamiX Extends NIR Material Identification to Footwear and Textiles
German company trinamiX has expanded its near-infrared (NIR) material identification tool to cover footwear and textiles, improving the ability to identify material composition quickly and accurately. Greater material identification capability is a foundational requirement for sorting at scale and achieving higher-quality recycling outcomes.
Bamboo Apparel Market Set to Reach $41bn by 2033
The global bamboo apparel market is projected to reach $41 billion by 2033, reflecting sustained demand for lower-impact fibres. Scalability and the environmental footprint of processing remain active areas of scrutiny, but momentum behind the material continues to grow as brands seek credible alternatives to conventional synthetics.
FIBRAL Alternative Plant Fibre Landscape Analysis
FIBRAL’s Alternative Plant Fibre Landscape Analysis offers a comprehensive overview of plant-based fibre options beyond conventional cotton, providing a useful reference point for brands exploring lower-impact raw material choices.
Strategy, Policy & Regulation
Global Fashion Summit: Building Resilient Futures
The Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2026 took place from 5 to 7 May at the Copenhagen Concert Hall, convening over 1,000 stakeholders from brands, retailers, NGOs, policymakers and manufacturers under the theme ‘Building Resilient Futures’. A central thread through the event was sustainability’s evolution as a commercial argument: rather than leading with values, brands are increasingly being asked to frame circular and ethical practices in terms of financial resilience and long-term business viability. Read the full press release.
Refashion Fined €170,000 for Textile Waste Failures
French authorities have fined Refashion, France’s textile eco-organisation, €170,000, over failures in managing textile waste collection. The case is notable in demonstrating that even the regulatory bodies established to manage circular systems are now themselves subject to accountability, as circular economy frameworks formalise and performance expectations tighten.
EU hits Temu with landmark €200m DSA fine: The European Commission has fined Chinese e-commerce giant Temu €200 million (£173 million) for failing to properly assess and mitigate the systemic risk of illegal and dangerous products on its platform. Issued under the Digital Services Act (DSA), the penalty follows a 19-month investigation where mystery shopping exercises uncovered unsafe electronics and baby toys exceeding legal chemical limits. Regulators also criticized Temu's algorithmic recommendation systems and influencer programs for amplifying these risks. Temu has until August 28 to submit an official remediation plan. EU fines Temu for failing to stop sale of illegal and dangerous products | European Commission | The Guardian
Milan Fashion Week to Discourage Fur from September 2026
Italy’s fashion body Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) announced on 16 May that it will introduce voluntary guidelines asking brands not to show fur at Milan Fashion Week from the September 2026 shows. The body stopped short of a formal ban, stating it prefers invitation over prohibition, but committed to removing fur from its own communications and channels. Animal welfare groups called it progress, noting Milan has historically lagged behind London, New York and other fashion weeks that have already implemented outright bans.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation Calls for VAT Reform to Scale Resale and Repair
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation published The New Bottom Line, a policy report backed by H&M Group, Primark and Zalando, arguing that resale, rental and repair will only scale if they become economically viable. The coalition is calling for reduced VAT on repair and resale services, pointing out that in many markets it remains cheaper to produce a new garment than to extend the life of an existing one.
Greenwashing and Overconsumption Remain Persistent Problems
A new report from the Nordic Council of Ministers highlights that greenwashing and overconsumption remain structural problems in the fashion industry, despite a decade of sustainability commitments. The findings add further weight to calls for binding regulation rather than voluntary pledges.
Retail Highs & Lows
Everlane Acquired by Shein
The biggest sustainability story of the month: Everlane, the millennial direct-to-consumer brand built on radical transparency and ethical production, is being sold to fast-fashion giant Shein in a deal valuing the company at $100 million, structured to absorb its $90 million in debt. Shein will acquire a majority stake from private equity firm L Catterton, with Everlane operating as an independent subsidiary. CEO Alfred Chang confirmed the sale and pledged continuity, but loyal customers reacted with dismay, calling it a betrayal of the brand’s founding values. The deal raises uncomfortable questions about whether independent sustainable brands can survive without eventually being absorbed into the fast fashion system.
Vinted Becomes UK’s Third Largest Fashion Retailer
Vinted reached an €8bn (£6.9bn) valuation following an €880m (£756m) secondary share sale, reporting gross merchandise value of €10.8bn (£9.3bn) and revenue of €1.1bn (£0.9bn). The platform has now become the third biggest fashion retailer in the UK, behind only Next and Primark, cementing secondhand’s position as a mainstream retail force rather than a niche alternative.
Burberry Returns to Profit
Burberry reported an operating profit of £115m for the 52 weeks to 28 March, compared with a £3m loss in 2025. Sales fell 2% year on year to £2.4bn, though comparable store sales rose 2%, suggesting the brand’s repositioning is gaining traction.
M&S Profit Hit by Cyber Attack
Marks & Spencer reported adjusted pre-tax profit declining 23.8% to £671.4m, with statutory pre-tax profit falling 28.8% to £364.6m, after a cyber attack caused £131.3m in disruption costs. Food sales rose 7.0% while fashion, home and beauty declined 7.7%.
Selfridges Proposes Head Office Restructure
Luxury department store Selfridges has proposed a restructuring plan that could result in a 2% reduction in its overall head office workforce. The retailer stated that the planned changes are designed to align with its ongoing strategic and financial objectives, with the final details remaining subject to an employee consultation process. Read more at TheIndustry.fashion.
Radley Acquired by Gordon Brothers in Pre-Pack Administration
Radley London has been acquired by Gordon Brothers in a pre-pack administration deal that secures the brand and its intellectual property for future global expansion, but leaves its physical footprint behind. The deal excludes all 21 UK stores, putting them at risk of closure, with 42 immediate redundancies confirmed.
LVMH Sells Marc Jacobs in $850m Deal
LVMH is offloading Marc Jacobs in an $850m deal, selling the US fashion brand to a new 50/50 joint venture between WHP Global and G-III Apparel Group, ending nearly three decades of ownership.
Adidas Sales Surge 7% in Q1
Adidas reported sales surging 7% to €6.6bn in Q1, with double-digit direct-to-consumer growth across all markets, as the sportswear giant continued to invest in marketing despite ongoing supply and transportation challenges.
Primark pledges £250,000 to LGBTQIA+ causes: Coinciding with the launch of its 2026 Pride collection, Primark has committed £250,000 to LGBTQIA+ charities and Pride events across Europe and the US. This marks the high-street giant's ninth consecutive year supporting Pride initiatives, bringing its total lifetime donations to £1.5 million. As part of this year's rollout, the retailer is directing a £75,000 grant specifically to UK youth charity The Proud Trust to fund vital support services and online chat resources. Primark pledges £250,000 to LGBTQIA+ causes across Europe - TheIndustry.fashion
ASOS Launches AI Stylist in ChatGPT
ASOS launched Asos Stylist in ChatGPT for UK and US customers, enabling shoppers to discover products, receive styling recommendations and view shoppable video content through conversational prompts built with Bambuser.
Google Tests AI Wardrobe and Virtual Try-On via Google Photos
Google is testing an AI-powered wardrobe and virtual try-on feature through Google Photos, signalling how digital tools could influence consumption patterns by reducing purchase friction and potentially cutting returns. The move places one of the world’s largest technology companies directly in the conversation about how consumers engage with their existing wardrobes.
Supply Chain & Ethics
US Forced Labour Probe Puts Fashion Supply Chains on Notice
The Trump administration has launched Section 301 trade investigations into 60 of America’s largest trading partners over their failure to ban goods produced with forced labour. The probe covers major garment-exporting nations including Bangladesh, Cambodia, Pakistan, Vietnam, India, Turkey and China, and could trigger new tariffs and import bans. For fashion brands, the pressure to implement more robust supply chain transparency is now not only ethical but commercial.
Ferragamo Maps Leather Origins Amid EU Traceability Rules
Salvatore Ferragamo is mapping leather origins across its supply chain in response to tightening EU traceability requirements, illustrating how incoming regulation is pushing luxury brands towards a more granular understanding of their material sourcing.
Oritain Report: Cotton Supply Chain Risks at Record Highs
A new Global Supply Chain Intelligence Report from Oritain warns that cotton supply chain risks have surged globally. Despite stricter forced labour regulations and enhanced tracing tools, nearly every major apparel manufacturing hub saw rising non-compliance in 2025, driving a sharp increase in the number of brands linked to prohibited cotton sources.
SUPIMA CEO Calls for Responsible Cotton Pricing
SUPIMA’s CEO has called for responsible pricing in cotton supply chains, arguing that sustainability cannot be delivered without brands accepting higher material and production costs. The intervention adds to growing industry debate about where the financial burden of ethical sourcing ultimately falls.
44% of Cotton Fibre Lost Before a T-Shirt Reaches the Consumer
A new study published in the Journal of Circular Economy found that 44% of the original cotton fibre used to make a T-shirt is lost before the garment reaches the consumer. Tracking the fibre journey of a cotton T-shirt made in Bangladesh and used in Norway, researchers found that under current conditions only 17% of the original fibre could be mechanically recycled and used again in a new T-shirt.
BESTSELLER Backs Regenerative Agriculture in South Africa
BESTSELLER has announced it is supporting regenerative agriculture in South Africa through an international fund, reflecting a broader industry shift towards investing in the health of agricultural systems that underpin fashion’s raw material supply.
Impact & Sustainability Reports
GANNI published their 2025 Responsibility Report. Rapport de Responsabilité GANNI 2025 | Introduction Key takeaways: Strategy Evolution: Concluded Gameplan 2.0 and introduced Gameplan 3.0, sharpening focus onto Climate, Innovation, and Women. Carbon Footprint: Reached a 32% absolute carbon reduction from a 2021 baseline, supported by lower production volumes and a 85% reliance on Preferred Materials. External Validation: Achieved SBTi target verification and re-certified as a B Corp with an increased score of 105.3. Social & Supply Chain: Expanded anonymous worker voice pilots in India and maintained living wage premiums with 8 core Tier 1 factories, while highlighting the difficulty of scaling insetting projects due to ongoing macro supply chain volatility.
Circ and Depop Named in TIME100 Most Influential Companies
Both Circ and Depop have been named in TIME’s TIME100 Most Influential Companies list. Circ’s inclusion recognises its progress in textile-to-textile recycling and positions fibre regeneration as a key innovation space; Depop’s reflects the continued cultural and commercial force of secondhand fashion within modern retail systems.
Wove App Launches to Scan Clothing for PFAS and Microplastics
A new app, Wove, has launched to give consumers a tool for identifying PFAS, microplastics and other toxic chemicals in everyday clothing. The app helps shoppers find safer alternatives, bringing chemical transparency directly to the point of purchase.
Resale, Rental & Repair
eBay Watchlist Trend Report: Legacy Brands Lead Q1 Resale
The SS26 Watchlist Trend Report from eBay is now live, drawing on platform data from 136 million active buyers and approximately 2.5 billion listings globally. The Watchlist pairs marketplace data with expert insight from eBay US’ Resident Stylist, Brie Welch. Based on global eBay purchases from January to March 2026, legacy brands continue to show resilience on the resale market, with Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Burberry and Chanel maintaining the highest volumes in Q1.
VNYX Raises €1m to Automate Resale Operations
Amsterdam-based startup VNYX has secured over €1 million in funding to develop a robotics system that automatically identifies and measures garments in minutes, with the goal of making fashion resale more profitable than disposal. The technology addresses one of the operational bottlenecks that has prevented resale from scaling as quickly as demand might otherwise allow.
Fashion for Good: Repair Must Become a Real Business Model
Fashion for Good published a landmark study, Sorting for Circularity Rewear, with one of its central conclusions being that repair needs to become a genuine business model rather than a sustainability add-on. Without commercial viability, repair will remain marginal to the fashion system rather than integral to it.
Reports & Research
Zara Overtakes Nike as World’s Most Valuable Apparel Brand
Kantar’s Most Valuable Global Brands 2026 report revealed that Zara has overtaken Nike as the world’s most valuable apparel brand, with Uniqlo also breaking into the global top 100. The top three brands globally were Google ($1.5T), Apple ($1.4T) and Microsoft ($1.1T).
87% of Textile Waste Still Goes to Landfill, Warns Spain Report
A new Moda re-report highlights that 87% of textile waste still ends up in landfill. Spain added nearly 30,000 textile collection containers in 2024, up 38% since 2021, but the system is still falling well short of capturing the bulk of the country’s textile waste stream. High clothing consumption and the fast fashion model remain the key barriers, with an estimated 19kg of textile waste generated per person each year.
AI in Fashion Supply Chain 2036
Fashion for Good has published AI in Fashion Supply Chain 2036, a landmark study exploring how artificial intelligence is transforming every stage of the fashion supply chain. The report looks a decade ahead to map the operational, ethical and environmental implications of AI adoption across sourcing, manufacturing, logistics and retail.
Global Fashion Agenda Releases Fashion Redressed Film Series
Global Fashion Agenda and BBC Storyworks have released 11 short films about the future of fashion value chains as part of the Fashion Redressed series. The films spotlight companies building new innovations and supply chain models in the textiles industry, using storytelling to accelerate industry-wide transformation.
WASTED Documentary Tracks Fashion Waste Across Nine Cities
A new documentary, WASTED, follows filmmaker Marcus Crook’s journey to nine cities to understand how fashion waste is created and how it might be reduced at a systems level. The film offers a ground-level perspective on the gap between policy ambitions and the realities of waste infrastructure.
Mary Portas to Open BRC Leaders Summer School
Mary Portas will open the BRC Leaders Summer School in June, an event focused on the skills and strategies needed to lead the next generation of retail businesses in a rapidly changing landscape.
UK High Street Suffers Worst April in a Decade
The UK high street recorded its worst April performance in a decade, marking eight consecutive months of falling sales. A new Voices of Retail Report has set out what structural changes are needed to drive recovery and long-term growth on UK high streets.